Thursday, 20 February 2014
Thursday, 15 August 2013
Friday, 21 June 2013
Thought I'd share some more recipes today, some nice, simple and fresh things for summer.
Enjoy!
This one is my Mom's original recipe!! Thanks, Mom!
Labels:
Beet Salad,
Illustrated Cookbook,
Illustrated Recipes,
illustration,
Kale Chips,
Quesadillas,
Recipes
Tuesday, 18 June 2013
I felt like sharing some of the recipes I put into my cookbook which I made a while back...it's nice to see these individually, I think....so I'd like to share one or two now and then. To be honest I do not know where this recipe came from, I certainly did not make it up!! And anyway it's all about the illustrated title, for me! :)
Sunday, 16 June 2013
Gardening Tools and Compost Advice
Little 'page of gardening tools' I put together to use some of those spot illustrations I created for Rooftops Montreal/ Alternatives (orignal post about that here, and the place where they've used some of the illustrations here) ...as the project has been suspended for a while anyway and the work was volunteer-based I hope they won't mind if I play around with the images and post some here on my blog.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Here is some excellent, clear, simple information on how to compost from Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, of River Cottage, of the River Cottage BBC tv series (of which I am a big fan!) that I just read about in the River Cottage cookbook. Great for those like me who have little-to-no experience with real composting, and especially carrying it through from tossing scraps on there to producing a finished product you can proudly spread on your garden beds.
Over to you, Hugh:
"Once you've got the hang of seed-packet gardening, the only really essential information you need to know is how to keep your soil in tip-top condition, year after year. However good your soil, vegetables will take the best of the nutrients out of it on an annual basis - and on an annual basis it has to be put back in. How do you do that? For the organic gardener, who wants to avoid chemical fertilizers, there is a one-word answer to this question: compost.
Your garden and kitchen activities are sure to generate a considerable amount of vegetative waste. Your job is to make sure it isn't waste at all, but goes back to feed the plants that feed you. You can start a compost heap in any quiet but reasonably accesible corner of the garden (you'll need to be able to drive a wheel-barrow up to it!), but it is a good idea to give it a little structure, rather than just make a big mound that slopes away at the edges. A three-sided structure, with "walls" of wood, corrugated iron, or straw bales, is simple to put together and will do very nicely. Don't make the base dimensions too huge or you'll never get any depth: about a yard square will do for an "average" household (as if there is such a thing!). A "floor" again of wood, or thick sheet plastic, will help retain moisture and heat. Moisture and heat, incidentally, are what composting is all about: any vegetable matter will eventually rot down into a form in which it will be welcomed back by the soil, but in a well-managed compost heap that stays warm and wet (but not too wet), the whole process can be speeded up considerably. Speed is important, because the faster you can make good compost, the more goodness you can put back into your soil at the end of the gardening year. If you generate enough waste and manage your heap well, a pile started in March can be dug back into the soil in November.
For this kind of efficiency, bulking out your heap with dry materials is essential; it will also improve the texture of your finished compost. Straw is good for this, as are wood shavings, dry leaves, and even shredded newspaper (a particularly good way to incorporate newspaper into your compost is to mix it with grass cuttings, which anyway have a tendency to rot to an unpleasant slime if piled on undiluted). The bedding from your hen house, be it straw or wood shavings, with its bonus of rich chicken dung, is an absolute must for the compost heap.
Just about anything of vegetable origin can go on a compost heap: the only thing to avoid is anything too coarse or woody that might lag behind the pace of decay of the rest of the material. Those with large vegetable gardens (who are forced to take their composting pretty seriously) sometimes address this problem with the aid of a powered compost shredder: it shreds coarser stalks down to a manageable size that will bring them in line with the rest of the pile.
Incidentally, one of the great dilemmas of the vegetablel gardener who also keeps pigs is which vegetable leftovers to save as piggy treats and which to throw on the compost heap. Last year, I was so generous to the pigs that, while they thrived, my compost heap actually lost weight. This year, I am trying to be a bit more even-handed; leafy waste and peelings all go for the compost, while thick cabbage and bean stalks, which are a bit coarse for composting but very nutritious, all go in the pig bucket, along with any starch and dairy leftovers.
An important aspect of compost is knowing when to finish it. Keep piling on the waste until your pile is about a yard high, ideally a bit more. Then stop. (Meanwhile, start a fresh heap somewhere else - right next door to the first one if you like.) You now need to turn the finished heap: use a pitchfork to move as much material from the bottom of the pile to the top and vice versa: or at the very least try to move the top layer to the middle by forking the stuff at the bottom and piling it on top. Cover the turned heap completely with an old bit of carpet, plastice sheeting, or a thick layer of straw. Leave it for about a month, then turn it and cover it again. It will be ready about six months after that. I look on the end of August as a cut off point: any heap finished before then should be ready for digging into the soil the following March/ April. Heaps finished fom September onward will need a good dose of Spring sunshine the following year to complete the process, but can be used for top-dresing your soil or digging in with late plantings of zucchini, squashes, spinach and salads. You can buy products, usually liquid, called compost accelerators, to speed the process even further. I've never tried them, but my dad swears by them.
Finished compost should be dark, rich, crumbly and pleasant-smelling - "like a good christmas cake," my dad says, though I'm not sure I'd go that far."
(Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, the River Cottage Cookbook, pgs 42 - 43)
Labels:
composting,
gardening basics,
gardening illustrations,
gardening tools,
high fearnley-whittingstall,
how to compost,
illustration,
river cottage
Saturday, 15 June 2013
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
















